Chapter 6 I accompany Yang Bin to visit Pyongyang

Yang Bin called me to visit Pyongyang

I finally completed the 0.5 million characters manuscripts of the book The Forbes China’s 100 - the top 100 wealthiest Chinese billionaires on the night of April 15, 2002, it is really a big relief after I finished the Postscript. Three month-long writing day and night, finally had the achievement, which can be handed over to the press now. Then my cell phone started to ring, it was Liu Dianhui from the CEO office of Holland Village, Shenyang, “President Yang wants to speak to you” Immediately, Yang Bin’s enthusiastic voice was on the line:
“Where are you, Teacher Guan?”
“At home in Beijing” I answered.
“Would you please write a book for me?” He asked.
That’s really contrary to my expectation, therefore I faltered: “What you want me to write?”
“I have read your article on me. It is better than those written by ordinary reporters. You’re a famous writer after all,” said Yang loudly, “I will prepare for all that you need for this book. You’d better come to Holland Village as soon as possible.”
“Why in such a hurry?” I asked in confusion.
He did not answer my question, instead, he suddenly asked me: “Have you ever been to Pyongyang, North Korea?”
“No. That’s a very reclusive nation, average people can not go there.” I told his according to the truth.
I heard he laughed on the phone, he asked: “Do you have a passport for going abroad?”
“No, I don’t have it.” I answered.
“Well, then you need to prepare several pictures, come to Shenyang tomorrow or the day after tomorrow, you will go to Pyongyang along with me.”
“Really?” I asked in suspicion.
“Really.” He answered in affirmation.
“…….”
“You’d better come to Shenyang within two days, we go there together.” He hanged up.
I wondered why did he want to take me to Pyongyang, North Korean. Although in the evening banquet on March 6, I knew he would lead the team went to Sinuiju to inspect the airport, the harbor, but I thought that was only an engineering project.
There were a lot stories about North Korea among us. It was a reclusive and mysterious country. The famous entrepreneur Song Chaodi once told me, after planning and publishing the book of Study Revolution, the second thought came to his mind was to find some one who could organize a book to present what was happening in North Korea. He encouraged me to organize the manuscript, which then will be published by him. But, articles on current situation and people’s lives in North Korea were rare; I only found two articles from the Xinhua News Agency principle office written by journalists of News Agency who worked in North Korea. It’s really a great idea to write a book on current situation of North Korea, but it was quite beyond my ability, so I have to decline the expectation of Song Chaodi with thanks. Only one year passed, now Yang Bin asked me to go to Pyongyang, North Korea with him, that’s really something like “Wear out iron shoes searching for something with no success, only to acquire it by accident through no effort of one's own.” I determined to visit more factories, officers and citizens when I got there. I prepared recorder, camera, dozens of films, notebooks and several Parker pens. Prepared the necessities with special care: two pack of Zhonghua cigarettes, two pack of “555” cigarettes.
By No. 11 express train from Beijing on April, 16, it’s already twilight when I arrived in Shenyang station. The receptionist, Geng Weiwei from the Holland Village met me at the platform. They sent me to Holland Village and accommodated me in D3 of villa area. This is two floors Dutch-style architecture, there were Dutch flowers and fruits in the parlor. All of these make me feel at home, which touched me deeply.
Just as I put down my luggage, Zhou Xiang, the director of the reception office came to see me in person in the villa. He was the one who guided and showed me around when I paid my first visit to Holland Village on March 6. It’s really happy to see friends again, especially when we were same people with the same hobby, so, free smoking and cheerful drinking at the table made it a really happy dinner.

[Photo: Some members of Yang Bin delegation, first from the left is Wang Nuo, Cui Yang (Female) the one in the middle, Yang Dayong was on the right. They took this picture in front of Yang’s special plane at Pyongyang airport. Photo was taken by Guan Shan]
Zhou Xiang told me that Yang Bin was about to head a delegation to Pyongyang, North Korea in recent days, those who had passports would leave from Shenyang by his special plane, those who didn’t would have to apply for “river passport”, that meant we had to handle Yalu River's temporary pass to Sinuiju in Dandong, as to Pyongyang side, they would be waiting for our arrival at Sinuiju customs, and then would take us to meet Yang Bin and others in Pyongyang by bus.
I sent my pictures to Zhou Xiang, he let the staff who worked in reception office to apply for the “river passport” on the next day.
Soon, members of Yang Bin’s delegation came from all over the countries who were also accommodated in villa area of Holland Village. We got chances to meet each other for dinner and meeting, there was Ma Nin whom I met before, and also Wang Huidong, Li Su, Zhou Fangsheng and others whom I had never met before. Then I happened to know that Yang Bin was negotiating a large project preparing to construct Sinuiju new district with North Korea.
Shocking adventures without danger in Sinuiju customs.
At 8:00am of April, 21, Ms. Wang Qi from the CEO office of Holland Village accompanied lawyer Yang Dayong, lawyer Cui Yang and me, we left Shenyang by train, and arrived in Dandong at noon. I had been to Dan Dong twice at the beginning of 80s and 90s. The small city which located in the border area, and surrounded by green mountains and jade water impressed me a lot, the scenery of Phoenix Park and Yalu River Park, which along the river looks beautiful, standing on the river bank, a special feeling comes when looking out the Sinuiju city, North Korea on the other side of the river.
Wang Qi, Yang Dayong, Cui Yang and I had a quick lunch in a restaurant near the customs and bought some drinks to take with. Then we rushed for the Dandong customs building to meet Wang Nuo, who was a harbor design and urban planning expert and the Director of Dalian Harbor Design Institute. He was driving the car of the institute directly from Dalian to Dandong. I had met him at dinner on March 6 in Holland village, being arranged at the same table. I was very pleased to find that I would be accompanied by an acquaintance during the trip to Pyongyang.
Wang Nuo, Wang Qi, Yang Dayong, Cui Yang and I were using “river passports”, which were in the name of “Dandong International Goods Storage and Transportation Co, Ltd”. My position on the passport was Manager and I had no idea of the others. At 1:00 pm, we were driven by the car of the company across Yalu River Bridge to Sinuiju customs house. The customs house was actually a large yard with a bungalow, which was different from the Shenzhen Luohu customs building and Hong Kong Luohu customs building I used to pass through in the 80s and 90s. The customs was not alike that I had imagined.
The officials from Ministry of Foreign Affairs sent by North Korea from Pyongyang had not arrived yet, so we had to enter the customs house by ourselves. The narrow room was crowed with people, some queuing up for procedures and stamps while some being checked. We found an old sofa without anyone sitting on it to rest while curiously waiting. The sofa I took was next to a table behind which a People’s Army Major around 50 was sitting I took out a case of “Zhonghua” cigarettes and began to smoke. The Major kindly looked at me, so I gave him a cigarette in a polite manner. He took over the cigarette and thumbed up to say highly of the cigarette. I also pointed at my cigarette and said in Korean “Zaosimida!”, which means “very good”. The wrinkled face of the Major revealed a smile with “Zaosimida!”
The Major had nothing to do but watching the two officers having lower ranks checking. I took a case of “555” cigarette from my luggage to share with the Major. I said “Danbai!” to him (Meaning “cigarette”). He was pleased to accept the cigarette and said “Guo Ma Misi Midas!”(Meaning “Thank you!”).
I was so glad to hear his answer that I said another few words in Korean “An Gang Simi Da!” (Meaning “Glad to see you”).
Then the Major suddenly said in Chinese: “You can speak Korean?”
I could only regret to say: “Only a few, only a few!”
Back in the early 1960s, I was transferred to Changbai Mountain area. At that time, in Liuhe County, where I was transferred to, there were many Koreans living in communes and the brigade, such as Wudaogoudaquanyan, Sanyuanbao and Ankou Town. I usually went to rural areas and lived in the houses of Koreans. I took meals at the Koreans’ home, for each meal, I was asked to pay 40 grams ticket or one Jiao, for whatever I ate. I could not dare pay more tickets or money, which was against the rules. Sometimes, I felt so sorry that I gave the liquor “Erguotou” brought from Beijing as gifts to the Koreans, in such a way, I made friends with many Koreans. Moreover, I had a Korean student named Nan Yongqian who loved literature. He later became a poet and an editor-in-chief of literary publications. I had learned some Korean at that time from the Korean friends. During the couple of years in the rural area, I had memorized some Korean daily words and learned some Korean songs. It was unexpected that forty years later, I was in Korea and spoke some sentences in Korean.
The Major smoked and sang Korean folk songs in a low voice.
I could not help following to sing songs, which were “Little White Boat” and “Cuckoo”, the popular Korean songs in 1950s and 1960s.
The Major spoke more highly of me, he took my arm and said “Good, good”.
The other two officers carrying out inspection also smiled at me.
At this time, Pak Song Ho, the translator of Ministry of Trade, coming from Pyongyang, arrived at the Sinuiju customs house. He told us that it was time for us to be inspected to pass the customs.
However, an accident occurred.
Cui Yang, the young female lawyer, walked into another room to be inspected by the female officers of People’s Army. Unexpectedly, a few computer disks were found in her skin satchel. The female officer insisted on checking the disks on the computer but Cui Yang firmly refused. She pushed the door open and cried, “Yang Dayong!”
On hearing that, Yang Dayong in another room came into the room and learned the reason, so he told the female officer that, “These are top secret documents, which you could never be allowed to check!”
However, the female officer seriously said, “This is the customs house, and we have the right to inspect any body and anything!”
She insisted on checking the disks on computer. Yang Dayong was irritated and protested: “I told you that if you open the disk, you should bear political responsibility. Even your chief or the secretary of Sinuiju dare not open the disks. This is the top secret of your central government!” We all stood up on hearing there quarrel. A “Chinese representative” quickly found the officials from the Ministry of Trade and the Korean translator.
Deputy Director Kim of Economy Bureau of the Korean Ministry of Foreign Affairs, had been to Shenyang to participate the first negotiation in Holland village as “Korean representative” days before. Yang Dayong knew him, and told him that the data in the disks were legal documents about the Sinuiju negotiations. Deputy Director Kim of the Korean Ministry of Foreign Affairs was aware that the affair of Sinuiju Special Administrative Region was highly confidential to the military force and the region, so the disks must never be checked by the officers from the frontier defense army. Then he told the female officer, “This is top secret information, you cannot open it. Is that OK for you to let go?”
But the female officer insisted on not letting go, saying that only after being ordered by a call from Pyongyang headquarters could we be released.
The officials from Ministry of Foreign Affairs began to call Pyongyang. More than one hour later, an officer told us that, “Pyongyang called, and you can be released. But the disks must be packaged and brought by the Korean officials to Pyongyang, which can be handed over to you after your arrival.”
The storm calmed down without any danger.
People were inspected by electronic instruments from head to toe. On seeing me, the Major patted me on the shoulder and said: “Gazha!” (Meaning “You can go!”)
Thus, we were not inspected by the electronic instruments and directly passed the customs to proceed on cars.
We were very fortunate that the mobile phones were in the luggage. With the companion of Korean governmental officials, we were not inspected very carefully. After opening, the inspectors only took a look at the luggage without turning over the content. The mobile phone hidden in the clothes were not found. Later, we learned that mobile phones were forbidden to pass the customs. But we could not use the mobile phone in Pyongyang, because there was no launching or receiving center, which were satellite communication device. During our stay in Pyongyang, we could not communicate with our family and friends in China through mobile phone. It was said that after October, Pyongyang would be equipped with satellite communications. So mobile phone would be used, although the number could be very small. We could only go to hotels for foreigners, such as Koryo Hotel, Yanggakdo Hostel, etc, to make international calls.
Finally we arrived at Pyongyang.
We left Sinuiju Customs by two cars sent from Pyongyang. There was a passage behind the yard of the customs for people to pass. Leaving the yard, the cars travelled north through the urban area of North Sinuiju into South Sinuiju. Mercedes-Benz could only achieve 40 miles an hour due to bad road conditions. Out of South Sinuiju, the cars were stopped by People’s Army for inspection. The officials from Pyongyang and an entourage in my car beside the driver got off for handling this. Then we continued to move after taking necessary procedures. But the road conditions were even worse and the car bumped more severely. Sometimes our heads reached the top of the car. I held the handle in the car tightly and nervously to avoid body jump.
Fortunately, the outside field attracted everyone’s attention. The trees beside the road turned green and there were Korean farmers tilling paddy field with cattle. The tilling season had come. A white village with Korean farm houses stood in distance. Occasionally, an old Gas 69 passed with free-riders, workers, farmers and soldiers packed in the cargo compartment. The truck rumbled away, letting off black smoke, may be caused by the diesel used.
I still felt very happy for setting my foot on the North Korean land for the first time. Seeing the true picture of North Korean village, I could not help singing a Korean song:
Beside green hills,
Plain is broad,
Beautiful and fragrant,
Gently flowing water,
Wave with the wind,
Enjoying the Spring…
Wang Nuo snickered. Maybe he thought that why was the old man so pleased after taking such a hard travel? Cui Yang snickered, too, asking: “You are singing a North Korean song, Mr. Guan?”
I replied: “Yes, I learned this song in the 1950s!”
So, I told them that in the 1950s, how familiar were young people with the War to Resist U.S. Aggression and Aid Korea, how much we loved Korean people, how interested we were in learning Korean songs……
Yang Dayong the lawyer was a “very bad” young man; he narrowed his eyes and said:
“How about singing a few more Korean songs? Let us also get familiar with!”
Asked by them, I sang Song of General Kim II Sung, The Flower Girl, Cuckoo and so on. Hearing these familiar songs, the Korean driver and the entourage looked back and smiled I shared the mineral water and cigarettes brought from Dandong with our Korean friends.
Passing Kumobongri, Chongju and Chongchon River, we entered Sinanju of South Pyongan Province. Along the way, we occasionally saw railway from Sinuiju to Pyongyang, but rarely seeing a train. Perhaps it was because of North Korea’s fuel shortages or long intervals between trains. I looked out of the window and found more trees, which was a great contrast with the bare hills we saw when we left Sinuiju. Here we entered the area of Mt. Myohyang. The car struggled in the mountains, passing Sukchon and Sogamri, we were about to enter the area of Pyongyang.
The red Mercedes-Benz bearing Wang Qi and the officials from Ministry of Foreign Affairs of North Korea was out of our sight. We stopped for a short rest and moved on. From then on, the car drove more stably and faster and the hills beside disappeared at once. It turned out that the car drove on North Korea’s freeway. The modern freeway of 50 km directly led to the urban area of Pyongyang.
It was getting dark, when we arrived at the urban area, the lights in Pyongyang turned on. The city full of high buildings and glamorous lights astonished those who visit Pyongyang for the first time. Across the triumphal arch Triomphe, the car drove along the Taedong River to a modern building, which was the famous Yanggakdo Hostel. We went into the lobby carrying our luggage. The lobby was filled with foreigners, including many people wearing the suits of Chinese army. We found that they were performers form Singing and Dancing Troupe of General Political Department of Chinese People’s Liberation Army to participate in the celebration activities of Korean People’s Army.
Despite several officials from Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Ministry of Trade of North Korea, we also met Wang Qi, who arrived earlier, and Ge Xianmin, Director of Pyongyang---Euro-Asia Joint Venture, Wang Yumin, Vice Director of our joint venture.
Ge Xianmin and Wang Yumin hosted a dinner in the Chinese restaurant on the lower ground of Yanggakdo Hostel for us, representatives form the motherland. The lower ground of Yanggakdo Hostel was rented by Macao Entertainment Company, with Chinese restaurant, Disco hall, sauna and small casinos.
Although the Chinese restaurant was not large, it had enough room for dozens of people. I noticed the prices of drinks and meal were charged by Dollars, so I calculated the estimated price referring to the domestic US$ and RMB exchange rate. As for a small bottle of “Heineken” beer, it was charged about five to six Yuans in domestic supermarkets, but it would cost US$3, i.e., RMB 25 Yuans. Later, Yang Bin brought us to the small casino and disco hall. A small bottle of “Heineken” beer charged US$5 in the disco hall, i.e., RMB 40 Yuans. The charges of Yanggakdo Hostel were comparable to any of the five star hotels in Beijing.
We were arranged to live in Yanggakdo Hostel.
We spent the night in peace.
Yang Bin arrived at Pyongyang by special plane.
I got up early at 6:30 on April 22. The time showed on my watch was Beijing time, which was 7:30, Pyongyang time. I opened the curtains to look outside, finding buildings of various styles surrounded by green trees and grass. Pyongyang was a city of high greening degree. I looked downward to find that the building was built on an island, green water flowing on both sides of the building with dozens of floors. I was told later by Pak Song Ho, a Korean official, that this small island was named Uanggakdo because it was shaped croissant. So the modern hotel on this island was named Yanggakdo Hostel after it.
After taking a breakfast with both the Korean and western styles, we got together at the hotel lobby and again, we got on the car. The long car team (then joined the large number of North Korean officials and Ge Xianmin, Wang Yumin from Euro-Asia - Pyongyang joint venture) went through the urban area, heading for Pyongyang airport.
The special plane for Yang Bin was scheduled at 10:00, Pyongyang time. But it was delayed at Taoxian Airport, Shenyang. So we had to wait patiently at the VIP lounge of the airport. At that time, the Korean governmental officials went to see us, led by a sixty years old, strong official.
I got to know after introduction that he was Kim Dongkyu, Director of North Korea Horticulture Company, and the others were official of Ministry of Foreign Affairs and North Korea’s Promotion Association for Foreign Economic Cooperation (we translated as: Economic Cooperation and Promotion Committee of North Korea). They were members of the Korean delegation visiting Holland village, Shenyang, days before.
Then the news came that the special plane for Yang Bin would land at 12:00 Pyongyang time. My watch showed that there was one hour left for me to visit the waiting hall on the second floor. There provided many Korean products on commodity counters for the passengers to purchase, such as ginseng, ginseng wine, ginseng candy, Korean cigarettes, colored dance clay figurines, calligraphy and paintings, foreign wine, foreign tobacco, imported small gifts……

[Photo: At 12:00, April 22, 2002, Yang Bin’s special plane arrived at Pyongyang airport. Kim Dongkyu, North Korea’s chief of the delegates met him at the airport. Photo was taken by Guan Shan]
I saw that there was a lounge with shelves holding various illustrated and pamphlets for people to read, so I went there to browse. There were books written in Korean, Chinese, English, Japanese, etc, on General Kim Jong II, such as Brief History of Kim Jong II, General Kim Jong II’s story, and the works of General Kim Jong II. These books were hard to find in China, so I took Brief History of Kim Jong II to read, standing. The one next to me told that the books were for those who loved them, if any body liked any, he could just took away, free of charge. So I took Brief History of Kim Jong II and each of the Chinese versions concerning General Kim Jong II, then I sat on a sofa, reading. I was reading the books when someone ran up to tell me that the special plane for Yang Bin was coming. We were asked to go down. We drove back to the airport and stopped at about 50 meters away from the runway. After a period of about one cigarette, two small planes landed like swallows. When our car team went just below the special plane for Yang Bin, the propeller was still rotating, producing strong wind. The cabin door of the special plane opened. Li Gang, Ma Ning, Yang Bin, Li Su and Zhou Fangsheng stepped down from the plane. Kim Dongkyu led North Korea’s officials to meet them and shook hands with Yang Bin and others. We also shook hands with Yang Bin and other officials. Reporters form Pyongyang TV channel of North Korea and some newspapers approached to take photographs.
Reporters form Pyongyang TV channel asked us to stand in a line for a group photo shoot. After a simple welcome ceremony, we got on our cars. Then the team of more than ten Mercedes-Benzes left Pyongyang airport for the urban area. I noticed that the plate of each car was marked with a red star before the numbers. My Korean friends told me that this was car team for state guests. On the streets of Pyongyang, the female traffic police were giving hints to all driving vehicles to stop in order to make way for the car team for state guests. The young, beautiful traffic policewomen, wearing white T-shirts and blue skirts, commanded the vehicles freely with batons (there was no traffic light command system in Pyongyang). They turned around, waving batons, like the performance of female dancers on the stage, which was a beautiful scene on the streets of Pyongyang.
At 12:00, April 22, 2002, Yang Bin’s car team left the airport for the urban areas. (Photo taken by Guan Shan)
The team first arrived at the monument of General Kim II Sung; we got off to walk on the steps. Li Gang handed out dozens of flowers prepared in Shenyang to each of us.
We presented flowers to the statue of General Kim II Sung.
I made a photo with my Olympus camera to record this important occasion.
Then, the team travelled along the Taedong River, passing Okryugwan Restaurant (the favorite Korea style cold noodle restaurant of General Kim II Sung. The restaurant full of ethnic styles faces the river. It has two floors and takes an area of thousands of square meters. Seeing the bustling crowd in front of the restaurant waiting, the car team drove below the Moranbong Park. Then we arrived at the beautiful Moranbong Ambassador Hotel facing the river. The second floor is composed of spacious and comfortable VIP halls, and people can view the scenery of Taedong River from the lanai. We had been here during our stay in Pyongyang, viewing the scenery and tasting the Korean cold noodles as well as various side dishes.) At the gate, the guard of People’s Army on duty saluted to the car team. We knew at that time that ordinary people were not allowed to come in the hotel, which was a hotel only for foreign chiefs of states.
I was arranged to live on the second floor in a suite with a living room, a bath room and a guest room. The wooden floor was cover with a carpet. There were a sofa, an end table and a big secretaire in the living room. A table was placed on the desk. There was also a big bookcase with clay sculptures of all kinds of Korean dancing figures. Korean ginseng tea was provided on the end table and fruits, Korean wine and mineral water were in the fridge. In the bath room, there were Korean toothpaste, tooth brush, fancy soap, and bath foam, etc. When I turned on the hot water tap, hot water poured. There was a 24-hour supply of hot water. Although there were no modern equipments and supplies in five star hotels in Beijing, such as electric water heaters, electric coffee pot, small appliances, coffee, sugar, all kinds of snacks and drinks, we should say that the supply was still it should be said that supply still covered a complete range.
Yang Bin also lived on the second floor. I believed that his suite was prepared for foreign chief of state. Two living rooms, one living room and one bathroom, were all very spacious and better-equipped. His lanai was spacious enough for 20 people sitting and enjoying the cool and it faced the scenery of Taedong River. There were a large desk and several sofas in the main guest room. What’s more, there was an international long distant telephone on the desk.
Every day after dinner, we often went to Yang’s living room, chatting with him, drinking tea on the large lanai and talking about the negotiations.
On the evening of April 22, the North Korean delegates hosted a welcome banquet for all the members of Yang Bin delegation at Moranbong Ambassador Hotel.
That night, Pyongyang TV channel broadcasted the news that Yang Bin arrived at Pyongyang together with a delegation.
On April 23, Pyongyang’s Korean Labor News published the report at the lower right of the front page with the group photo of Korean delegation and Yang Bin delegation at the airport. The Korean delegation gave me a copy of Korean Labor News of this day. I brought it to Beijing and has been preserved it.
I accompanied Yang Bin to the casino.
At 11:00 on the 23 (Beijing time 10:00), we were invited to watch the performance by singing and dancing regiment of People’s Army for celebrating the 70th anniversary of People’s Army of North Korea in Pyongyang National Grand Theatre.
In the afternoon, we watched the performance of the North Korea national taekwondo team.
After dinner, we were originally arranged to have a rest and individuals were not allowed to leave Moranbong Ambassador Hotel to avoid getting lost. I went to the guest room, smoking and drinking tea. Although only two channels available in Pyongyang and both in Korean, it was quite interesting to watch the Korean TV channels for the first time.
Suddenly, Lawyer Yang Dayong ran up from the downstairs and shouted: “Come on, old man, everyone waiting for you!”
“Is everyone not in the rest?” I asked
“Quick, quick, all people are in the car.” Yang Dayong said anxiously.
“Where are we going to?” I was still confused.
“Mr. Yang will take us to Yanggakdo Island!” Yang Dayong said with a smile.
I hurried downstairs with him. At the gate, I saw Yang Bin in his lengthened Mercedes-Benz. I quickly got on the microbus behind his car with Yang Dayong. There I met Tong Lianfa, Wang Nuo, Lawyer Li, Wang Yumin and so on.
Yang Bin’s team left the Moranbong Ambassador Hotel, passing through the urban area and arrived at Yanggakdo Hostel where we had stayed days before. We went straight to the lower ground with Yang Bin. There was no North Korean official on this floor, because the officials were forbidden to come to the lower ground. I had been to Pyongyang twice with Yang Bin and repeatedly accompanied him to Yanggakdo Hostel for gambling, but I never saw any Korean official on the lower ground, which showed that they were seriously abided by the discipline of Foreign Affairs.
Besides the Chinese restaurant we had been to, there were still a disco hall and a sauna and a casino on the under ground. Yang Bin asked me: “Have you been in a casino?”
I smiled and said: “This is the first time and I have no idea what is it like?”
Yang said: “Follow me; my luck of gambling is……” He laughed proudly.

[Photo: The group photo of the author with Russian and Bulgarian artists in Pyongyang Yanggakdo Hostel.]
We, more than 10 people, went into the casino, led by Yang Bin. Since Yang told me to follow him, I had to follow. Wang Qi and Liu Dianqi from the Director Office of Euro-Asia Group immediately exchanged jetton for him. There were red strip card of US$1,000, grey round card of US$100 and various jetton of US$10, US$5 and US$1. There were four large tables; each had their own names and gambling laws. I had been here with Yang Bin for more than ten times, but I am still puzzled with the names, gambling laws and winning laws. I remember that there were two small hath-paces beside the door for blackjack with cards, which was the simplest game with the least money for ordinary visitors. Yang won the money in the casino and gave each of us US$100 or US$200. So we went to the blackjack table to gamble. I also gambled several times, roughly even winning and losing.
Yang Bin sat at “big” and “small” table, only US$100, US$200 or US$500 at the beginning. When he found the opportunity, he put two small red cards, or even 5 small red cards. That was US$2,000 or US$5,000. With good luck, he won several small red cards. I stood behind Yang Bin all the time. He asked me to sit next to him after he won. There were a pile of red cars and round cards before him. He was pleased and said to me: “How about my luck? Not bad?”
“Really，good luck.” I said.
“It’s because of you!” He said.
Therefore, he took two small red cards, saying to me: “Mr. Guan, please give US$200 to everybody to gamble, whether win or lose, it will be yours.” Then I exchanged the two red cards for 20 jetton of US$100, two for each of us. Thus we went to the blackjack table to gamble.
It was around midnight. I went to the disco hall next to the casino. Many foreign actors had been crowded there, dancing. Li Gang, Wang Qi and Wang Yumin sat on the sofas, drinking beer. They were waiting for the end of Yang’s gambling. The waiter sent a bottle of “Heineken” beer to me, but I was a stomach cold patient and could not have any cold drink. Li Gang invited me to drink, so I had to drink a little. We had met the few young foreign disco dancers when we lived in Yanggakdo Hostel days before. The Russian actors had talked with us in the foreign exchange shop and had photos with us. They gave hints to us when they were near us. Actors from Russia and Bulgaria expressed a respectful and friendly feeling for Chinese people. I found no Chinese in the group of delighted disco dancers. But in the casino, they were all Chinese, even some performers of the Singing and Dancing Troupe of General Political Department and the performance company in casual dress. However, no Europeans with yellow hair and blue eyes appeared in the casino. I looked at the watch, finding that it was near 1:00 in the morning, so I went back to the casino to see the gambling results.
I just sat down at blackjack table when Yang Bin came and said: “Mr. Guan, you just watch, I will play!”
Because the gamblers at this table were members of Yang Bin delegation and the gambling jetton was the US$200 Yang had given them. Most of them were in the casino for the first, so they only gambled for 5 or US$10 each time. Yang Bin just put three red cards, each of US$1,000, on the table. He was in the third place, reading the first two ones and his own card, it was only 17 points. He stopped and commanded the others. In particular to the sixth, it was already the largest“18 points”, he could stop, but Yang asked him to continue. He got two small cards and he lost the game. The host held “16 points”, so she must continue. He continued to catch cards. Yang Bin shouted: “Lose! Lose!”
It turned out that the host lost the game, so he had to pay 1 to 1.5 times for all members. The lost sixth neither won nor lost.
Yang Bin was pleased and jumped off the seat, shouting: “Thank you!” Suddenly he did a dancing move of rotation, because of the slippery floor, he almost fell down. Lawyer Cui Yang and Wang Nuo caught him and the people beside him pulled him in time. Yang had no idea of the danger; he was still exited and said loudly: “Thank you! Let’s go, go back!” Yang Bin now completely forgot his identity, acting like a kid. The crowd burst into laughter. Some gamblers even shouted: “Mr. Yang, come back tomorrow!”
We left the casino with shouts and laughter.
This evening, Yang Bin won a lot of gambling jetton, which turned out to be US$20,000 in cash. I had exchanged the US$200 given to me into cash and I spent US$120 on a ten volume Chinese version Memoir of Kim II Sung published by North Korea Foreign Language Press. I also bought an album of North Korean stamps, harvesting a lot.
Kim Jong II twice invited Yang Bin delegation to watch the ceremony on April 25, which was the 70th anniversary of North Korea’s People’s Army. There was a grand parade celebration at Kim II Sung Square, mainly including the militia and representatives of armed services, such as sea, land and air forces and students from military academies.
We have been informed to watch the ceremony, and were told that we were “invited by General Kim.”
After breakfast, we all put on our suits and take video recorders, cameras, film and other supplies, getting on our cars. The Mercedes-Benz of Director Kim was the first and Yang Bin’s lengthened Mercedes-Benz was the second, followed by a long car team. Then we left. We were never impeded all the way. At Kim II Sung Square, accompanied by Director Kim, Yang Bin was met by Kim Jong II and was invited to the main watching platform. And we were arranged on the right platform. When we were on the platform, we found that this was the place for all envoys and military officers. The two rows before us were military officers from Chinese Embassy in North Korea and China’s military delegation, which was from General Political Department of People’s Liberation Army and Shenyang Military Region. They came to Pyongyang to participate in the celebration of the 70th anniversary of North Korea’s People’s Army. And there were performers from the Singing and Dancing Troupe of General Political Department with the military delegation. Days before, they held a celebration performance in Pyongyang. General Kim Jong II watched the performance in the theatre and had photos with the performers.

[Photo: April 25, 2002 was the 70th anniversary of North Korea’s People’s Army. A grand parade celebration was held at Kim II Sung Square. Photo was taken by Guan Shan]
There were military officers of different skin colors, wearing different uniforms, and some North Korean entourages wearing suits. The last row on the platform was young North Korean female officers, attracting the attention of officers from various countries. The female military officers were responsible for the security of the guests and when we took photos of them, the refused politely.
The array of People’s Army went into the square. They constantly changed the formations, neatly and orderly. Later, North Korea officials told us that these soldiers were only militia. In order to avoid America, its allies and foreign media attacking North Korea for the parade, the parade was not displaying the force, but held by militia. When Kim Jong II, Chairman of North Korean National Defense Commission, and other leaders of North Korean Party, government and military forces came up to the platform, quaking cheers burst in thousands of people and militia, they shouted “Long Live!” “Long Live!”. I had worked in Central News Documentary Company when I was young, participating in many National Day parade shooting, so the heartfelt cheers and scenes were familiar to me. We Chinese guests had not seen and heard this for many years.
The military band and honor guard came into the square.
The General Commander of Parade stood on the parade car. He reported to the platform and Kim Jong II that “The military force is ready for your parade!”
Kim Jong II said loudly: “Comrades!”
The parade began. The motorcycle team shaped as a reversed Y led an open car holding a red flag with the portrait of General Kim II Sung on it. Then all arms of services and students from military academes followed. The People’s Army array at the square before walked before the platform, changing formations. When the army vacated went towards the platform from the square, tens of thousands of people holding red flowers came from all directions, replacing the array of People’s Army. Large banners composed by white or yellow or green flowers like “Celebrate 425” and “Long live General Kim Jong II”. Military officers and guests on the platform applauded.
The honor guard of military forces all passed the platform.
Thousands of people holding flowers rushed to the platform in a sudden, shouting “Long live General Kim! Long live! ”
It was the response to Kim Jong II’s waving hands to his people.
We also cheered on the platform and the voice got louder and louder. General Kim Jong II had walked to the right side of the platform to wave toward the envoys and military officers. I made a photo of the exciting moment. General Kim Jong II stood on the platform more than ten meters from us, constantly waving! I heard the military officers around me and almost all people on the platform shouting: “Long live! Long Live!”
I was deeply impressed. This was the Korean People’s heartfelt cheers. That fanatic, exciting atmosphere would speed up your blood, making you integrate into the people, enjoying together, cheering together, and singing together! After the parade, when we retreated with the crowd on the platform, I met the military delegation of People’s Liberation Army from the motherland, including three generals and several senior colonels. I also saw Peng Liyuan from the Singing and Dancing Troup of the General Political Department. She stood in a row right below us on the platform during the parade. At this time, we were walking in the street and the park was far away from us. When Peng Liyuan approached me, I talked to her and greeted: “How is Comrade Qi Xin?” Qi Xin is the wife of Xi Zhongxun, Peng’s mother-in-law. I had met Qi Xin once at Yang Xianzhen’s house. She was there visiting Yang in the name of Comrade Hu Yaobang.

[Photo: General Kim Jong II had walked to the right side of the platform to wave toward the envoys and military officers after the parade. His approachable etiquette was respected by everyone. Photo was taken by Guan Shan]
To my greetings, Peng Liyuan said a few words of thanks. At this time, a member of our delegation made a photo of us talking. People from the motherland had a feeling of “Dragon Heir” and being close.
Later, in the evening of April 27, we were again arranged to watch the rehearsal for “Arirang” Festival. “Arirang” Festival is an important art festival in North Korea and the arrangement takes about two months. Because when we arrived at Pyongyang again in June, the festival was still going on. It was said that there were thousands of people and students participating in the large-scale musical dance and only the rehearsal had taken more than six months.
On hearing that we were leaving Pyongyang in a few days, Kim Jong II ordered Director Kim to arrange us to watch the rehearsal of “Arirang”, which was the last International reporting performance of “Arirang” and General Kim Jong II would present to watch. When we arrived at the large stadium opposite to Moranbong Ambassador Hotel, Yang Bin was arranged to sit at another place, accompanying by Director Kim Dongkyu and we were arranged to sit at the up left side of the platform. Most of the audiences in the stadium were military officers and we were the only foreigners invited. I was close to the railings, but from top to down, there were a row of young entourages in suits, who were responsible for the security. Because the platform was at the down right side of us and later Kim Jong II and other North Korean leaders would be there, 20 meters away from us.
You would never forget the “Arirang” performance. The whole musical dance and the performers opposite to us, i.e., the platform, demonstrated the North Korean landscape and colorful banners. The neat action and the harmony of the whole story were amazing! It could be said that no other country in the world could achieve that. That was hundreds of thousands of performers rehearsing for more than six months! That was the effort of hundreds of thousands of performers and the love they expressed for their motherland and General Kim Jong II.
Here, I would not give a detailed account of the story and performance of the large-scale musical dance “Arirang”. We arrived at Pyongyang in April. It was lucky for us to participate in so many art activities in this month and meet Kim Jong II twice. I would deeply miss the Pyongyang trip for a long time.
Out of our expectation, although we had talks, the negotiations on Basic Law of Sinuiju Special Administrative Region we had been here for became less important.
There Pyongyang negotiation without any “breakthrough”. The Pyongyang trip in April happened to be in the period of the festival season, like World Music Festival in Pyongyang, the 70th anniversary of the People’s Army, “Arirang” Festival and we were invited to watch a great number of performances. We were fully immersed in the festive atmosphere, and the Sinuiju Special Administrative Region negotiations became secondary. Privately we said that the Pyongyang trip was a lesson, i.e., for us to study. We saw the respect and love of the North Korean people to General Kim Jong II and the rich cultural life of the North Korean people.
During our first visit to Pyongyang, we negotiated for three times, which were all held in Pyongyang Cultural Palace.
The first round of talks was carried out on April 24.
Having breakfast in Moranbong Ambassador Hotel, accompanied by North Korean officials, we arrived at Pyongyang Cultural Palace. After taking seats in a large lounge on the second floor, drinking and smoking. After a while, Director Kim and Pak Song Ho, the translator, went to see us in the lounge and talked with Yang Bin. Then, we were led to a large conference room on the third floor and North Korea’s representatives were at the door to welcome us. We each took a seat after shaking hands.
Members of Yang Bin delegation:
Yang Bin, Ma Ning, Wang Huidong, Tong Lianfa, Luo Weijian, Li Su, Wang Hao, Zhou Fangsheng, Guan Shan, Yang Dayong, Cui Yang, Jin Hu, the translator. Wang Qi, Liu Dianhui, from Euro-Asia Group.
Chief of “North Korea’s delegation” was still Director Kim Dongkyu and there were the other 11 representatives and the translator, Pak Song Ho. Kim Dongkyu briefly expressed that as the host, he welcomed us to Pyongyang and hoped that we would eat well, play well, rest well, and also negotiate well, making greater progress.
Yang Bin gave an address. He said that, I grew up in China, subject to the education of patriotism and internationalism. From childhood, I knew that North Korea and China were “like nip and teeth”, knew “the War to Resist US Aggression and Aid Korea” and the Sino-Korean friendship. Now, we came to North Korea to talk about establishing “Sinuiju Special Administrative Region”, we were one family! Without kind words, in order to do a good job on the Sinuiju Special Administrative Region, the key was Fundamental Law. Foreign businessmen were most concerned about the "Fundamental Law”, so they dared to invest. The most important elements of Fundamental Law were the three rights. Foreigners depended on the justice and the safety as well as rights protected by law. There would be no “Fundamental Law” without the three rights. If the three rights belonged to the chief of the region, that would be Special Administrative Region. This was not asking for rights for me, but for promoting investments and managing as well as perfecting the SAR.
A representative of North Korea chipped in: President Yang Bin, could it be Ok that in the name of Special Region, it was constructed as a Special Administrative Region?
Tong Lianfa: “The Special Administrative Region has legislative power, executive power and judicial power, easily for people to understand. But the meaning of Special Region is not clear, and does not cover these three rights. But the special economic zones meaning clearly indicates that the region has the economic administration, but there is no judicial power orlegislative power. As for the current special situation of North Korea, which large foreign enterprise or bank dares to invest in Sinuiju?”
“Fundamental Laws and Basic Agreements we brought this time are aimed to turn the Sinuiju region with geographical advantages into an ideal investment environment. Introducing large foreign enterprises in the region makes it a financial, trade, modernized industrial and entertainment centre. All are for this purpose.”
Fundamental Laws mentioned by Professor Tong Lianfa was Fundamental Law for the Sinuiju Special Administrative Region, Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (Propositional Draft).
In addition to the Preface, Fundamental Laws (Propositional Draft) included nine chapters, for a total of 82 articles.
Later, on September 12, 2002, the Standing Committee of North Korea’s Supreme People’s Conference adopted the Decree No. 3303, which determined that Fundamental Law for the Sinuiju Special Administrative Region, Democratic People’s Republic of Korea was divided into six chapters and 101 articles. The "Annex" included four articles.
To enable the readers to understand clearly evolution process of the "Fundamental Laws", the chapters and tiles of Fundamental Laws (Propositional Draft) were reproduced as follows:
Preface
Chapter I General Provisions (Article 1- Article 10)
Chapter II The Relation between Central Government and the Sinuiju Special Administrative Region (Article 11- Article 20)
Chapter III Basic Rights and Obligations of the Residents (Article 21- Article 39)
Chapter IV Political System (Article 40- Article 48)
Chapter V Economy (Article 49- Article 62)
Chapter VI Cultural and Social Affairs (Article 63- Article 72)
Chapter VII Foreign Affairs (Article 73- Article 80)
Chapter VIII of the interpretation of this Law (Article 81)
Chapter IX Other Provisions (Article 82)
Basic Agreement was fully named Basic Agreement on Establishing Sinuiju Special Administrative Region between Foreign Economic Cooperation and Promotion Committee, Democratic People’s Republic of Korea and Euro-Asia International Trade Company (Propositional Draft). The Agreement was divided into 26 articles with no chapters or titles.
①
In the negotiations, a Korean representative said:
“It is new to our country to have a Special Administrative Region. Hong Kong and Macao are named Special Administrative Region for 50 years, and for the implementation of one country, two systems, it is appropriate. To Sinuiju, our country repeatedly discussed that, if the region is named Special Administrative Region, like your Hong Kong and Macao, it sounds like a colony. So we think it is better to name it a special region and its name should be special economic zone. If you insist on the name of Special Administrative Region, we will report it to the Supreme Conference.”
This was a Deputy Representative in Chief, only inferior to Kim.
We knew that North Korea members of the delegation were from different governmental departments; in addition to their own understanding, they were representing views of people in charge of various departments, even the views and decisions of North Korea Supreme Conference and General Kim Jong II. North Korea’s representative must express the leadership’s intentions. However, the ideas of Yang’s experts were very practical. First of all, we must let the Korean representatives understand, fearing that they were too closed to understand the outside world and various international practices. Like China in the late 1970s and early 1980s, many senior government officials did not fully understand the “open” and “reform” and were not familiar with international practices, they had the ideas of planned economy era in their minds. As long as they could truly reflect our views and ideas, it would also be a good thing.
Thus, Tong Lianfa and Luo Weijian introduced and explained the situations to them during the negotiation, helping them understand out ideas.
The second round of talks was held on April 26, still on the third floor of Pyongyang Cultural Palace. We were divided into two groups, namely, the legal group to discuss Fundamental Law, which I attended. And the economic group to discuss Basic Agreement, which Yang Bin, Ma Ning, etc, attended.
The third round was held on April 27. Talks were between parties with no group, mainly on Fundamental Law.
Yang Bin insisted on the name of “Sinuiju Special Administrative Region”, with legislative power, executive power and judicial power
North Korea insisted that, the SAR could enjoy legislative power, executive power and judicial power, but it should be named “special economic zone”. This was the first time that North Korea agreed that the region could enjoy jurisdiction and legislation. But they did not elaborate. Because Yang Bin delegation would all leave Pyongyang tomorrow, this could be suspended for the next negotiation.
At 5:00, April 28, Li Gang accompanied Wang Nuo, Yang Dayong, Cui Yang, Wang Qi and people from Euro-Asia Company, leaving Moranbong Ambassador Hotel on a bus of the travel agency. We went to North Korea Horticulture Company to say goodbye to Director Kim Dongkyo and others.
Clouds gathered and it seemed to rain.
The bus left Pyongyang, driving on the freeway. The rain finally came. The bus stopped at 50 kilometers from Pyongyang. A car stopped in front of us and Director Kim waved to us to say goodbye. The almost 60-year-old man, a Korean ministerial level official, had escorted us for the 50 km of freeway. Everyone on the bus was deeply moved. The bus drove on the rough highway in the rain. As far as I knew, there were 180 km before us. On his returning from China, General Kim Jong II said to Cai Zhefu, Secretary of Municipal Committee of the CPC, Dandong and Jiang Zuoyong, Mayor of Dandong at Dandong train station, that “we will build a freeway from Pyongyang to Sinuiju”, referring to this 180 km. The bus arrived at Sinuiju customs at 11:40. The customs would be closed at 12:00. So we were very anxious, because otherwise, we had to pass the customs at 2:00 in the afternoon. Escorted by officials form Ministry of Foreign Affairs, we were not carefully inspected at the customs.
I met that Major again. He asked me, “How is Pyongyang?”
I replied: “Very beautiful!”
He was very pleased.
I gave him a box of “555” cigarettes. He was even more pleased and patted me on the shoulder.
We got on the travel wagon from Dandong. When we were on the Yalu River Bridge, I loudly recited a poem written by a famous poet 50 years:
Cross the Yalu River,
Like flying,
I am back, motherland,
I am back, my mother!
Although I left China for only eight days and Pyongyang was so beautiful with festivals on everyday, I missed the motherland and my hometown so much that I could not express that in any words.
“We are back!” We shook hands with each other to celebrate.
Notes:
① Nan Yongqian: born in 1948, Korea nationality. He was graduated from Highschool No.1, Liuhe County, Jilin Province and Learning Institute for Writers in Jilin. He was Editor in chief of Changbai Mountains (Korean) after graduation. Minority member of the Chinese Writers Association, lifelong member World Poets’ General Assembly, Director of Chinese Korean Development Research Committee. He began to publish poems in 1971. Works: Love, Soul of Mountain, Divine Betula, Cuckoo, Garden and so on

② “Foreign Economic Cooperation and Promotion Committee, Democratic People’s Republic of Korea” is the Chinese translation. The North Korean version is “Promotion Association for Foreign Economic Cooperation, Democratic People’s Republic of Korea”. These two are the same organization. The translations in files of each party are different due to the different Chinese and Korean version.